August 22, 2008

Bears! Oh my!

Tonight, after a nice pizza dinner, Gary, my mom, Jaime, Bitsy and I all piled into the Element to go "bear watching." Now, we've been bear watching quite a few times this Summer, and in June Jaime spotted a bear up on the side of a mountain, quite far away. But tonight...
Gary had heard there were bear sightings the past two nights out by the Russian River, so that's the way we headed. (Apparently a few other people heard about it too, because almost everywhere we went there were about 5 cars, all there for the same reason!) We drove just outside of town, and stopped when we saw the caravan of cars parked and people standing at a distance from a riverbank. For there, about 40 yards off, was a young "tween" bear, jumping after salmon with the vibrance and clumsiness of inexperience! It was great. He didn't even notice the 15 people staring at him - and the little boy throwing rocks toward the water - while he caught a fish and took a bite, then jumped back in the shallow water to grab another course for his supper. (See pic, below)

That was so exciting to watch. Jaime and I also went further down the river (far away from the bear) to watch the salmon run. Another first for me! Groups of grey-colored salmon just seemed to hover, swimming in place like they were waiting for a light to turn green! (Or maybe they knew there was a bear up ahead, and were waiting for his belly to get full) A light rain was falling as we saw one particularly determined salmon jump and fight up a small creek and into the main part of the river!

Satisfied but seeking further adventure anyway, we all carried on, traveling further down the road. We drove around a slightly more rural neighborhood, about which Jaime noted, "if you buy a house here, you get the bears for free!" But we didn't see any Kodiak Brown Bears there. So we started to head back to town. And then I saw them... out of the corner of my eye, something was splashing and jumping around in a little part of the river that no passers by had noticed - more bears! I was excited and didn't want to freak out the driver (Gary) by sounding panicked, but I managed to say "Baggins... Shire..." (Just kidding! That's not what I said.) I really said "Turn around! I think I saw two bears playing in the river back there!" So Gary wheeled the car around and we slowly started back towards the spot where I had seen them.

There they were! Two - no, three - fairly large bears, having a ball getting their long-awaited (and very late) salmon feast! One young & foolish (i.e., more dangerous) bear was only about 20 feet away from us, but was down an incline off the road. My mom crept out of the car with her camera, and I followed suit. I felt like a National Geographic photographer, getting close to the action. And then, very aware of us, it stood up to smell our scent on the air (bears eyes aren't that great, so they stand up to get a better whiff), and I couldn't help but wonder if it could cover those 20 feet faster than my mom & I could cover the 5 feet back to the car!

Thankfully, the bear was more distracted by all the fish swimming around it than by two funny smelling humans! My camera settings were all wrong, but I had to take pictures as quickly as I could in this possibly once-in-a-lifetime photo op! And of course, once another car saw us parked at this "unknown" spot, they whipped out their cameras and got out of their car, followed by another car. But the bears were getting nervous at this point, so they all ran off. But we were the first ones there! It was so awesome to see these powerful and beautiful creatures in their natural habitat!

(Actually, it looks in the picture like there were 4 bears - see the dark blobs in the background?- but I only noticed 3 at the time. Hmm...)

And that's what we did for fun on this rainy Friday night in Kodiak. :)

August 19, 2008

Island Living 1: Lost in the St. John Brush!

The challenges of "island living" are more evident after spending much more than just a 2-week vacation on the islands of St. John and Kodiak. Though different, the lifestyles of these two islands taught me a thing or two about life and living itself.

Jaime and I had a great time with Emily and Nate (Jaime's sister & bro-in-law) in St. John! The first 2 weeks especially were our "vacation" time! We all stayed at the "Jungalow" (Bungalow in the Jungle) together. (Em and Nate even let us sleep in their bed!)

The jungalow is a building the landlord lived in while her house was being built. Many people still live in their "cottage," and put their house building on hold because of the high costs involved. (Think 2-3x what it takes to build a house in Florida!) The jungalow, in this case, is rented out by the homeowner to make additional income, which surely helps when a head of broccoli is about $7, and a quart of Ben & Jerry's is $8! So we stayed in the plywood/screen structure with a tin roof. Though it was somewhat open to the elements, the jungalow had a sense of comfort about it.

It was nestled deep in the valley of Fish Bay, and there always seemed to be a cool breeze blowing. We went to sleep much earlier, since it got dark pretty early and there weren't as many distractions to take up our time. Some rainy nights the air got pretty cold, but we just pulled the cotton blankets over our heads! It felt like we were the lost boys in Neverland! I miss the sounds of trees dancing in the wind, and hermit crabs crawling to find dinner on the forest floor.

Jaime could not wait to grow veggies and herbs, and he planted garlic, basil, onions, lettuce, and peas! I busied myself one afternoon by building a little "fairy house teepee" out of things I found on the ground. It looked pretty neat when it was done!

One Sunday after church, we stopped by the grocery store and started to drive up "Jacob's Ladder," which is a very steep hill that requires hitting the gas and sometimes a wing and a prayer to get up. Well, we started to go, but never made it up the hill that day! The little car died trying to get up the hill, but luckily the mechanic shop was right next to the hill! Out we went, and ended up calling a taxi to come take us - and our groceries - home. It was at that point when we had to get really creative with transportation! Emily drove a work truck, and sometimes if it was on her way she would drop us off at work around 6a.m. (3 1/2 hours early. It was worth it, getting up that early, just to know we had a ride!) When we got jobs at "Big Planet," the surf shop in town, we would get there super early and just sleep on a picnic table bench at the park across the street! Once a park ranger stopped by and asked us a few questions, to make sure we hadn't spent the night there. It was humbling, too, hitch-hiking to work quite a few times. (It's actually very common and safe for people to "hitch" in St. John. Most people have "been there"!) I've never felt quite as grateful as I did when I saw someone's brake lights come on for us! We rode in the back of cars, jeeps, trucks... it was an interesting experience!

The first time I hitched, I was by myself, and walked quite a long way towards town before someone stopped. This fancy SUV pulled over, and half of me wasn't sure if it was for me, while the other half didn't want it to be! The driver finally rolled his window down and said, "Hey there, were you begging a ride?" I reluctantly said "rrrr, um, yes..." and got in. Boy that A/C felt great, let me tell you! He was very nice, and we had just enough conversation to keep it from being too awkward. The other time I had to hitch by myself, a work truck picked me up and this guy was in the back. I knew I would be okay, but he kept staring at my chest! This was incredibly annoying, but I pretended not to notice. In broken English, he asked me if I had a boyfriend, and I told him yes, definitely! After a few minutes of riding along, I was "finally" able to tap the side of the truck so the driver could let me jump out! Oh yeah. That was also the day I had gotten lost in the brush...

Here's the story: I was by myself one Friday, and didn't feel like hitch-hiking. I knew that Nate had walked home from work many times through "the gut" of Fish Bay, and that the school was very close to his work. So, in what is now not thought of as my greatest moment of genius, I decided to try to find the gut myself, and walk through it to the school. I strapped on my backpack, which held my lunch, my waters, my notebook and my pride, and started walking in the direction of the gut. Or what I thought was the direction of the gut. I learned a lot about the topography of St. John that day, for instance, did you know that brush gets thicker and tougher as you get higher? Well, I didn't, so I walked up a pretty steep hill ("Nothing compared to walking out of Fish Bay to hitch-hike," I thought.) and made my way through the trees and large rocks. But as I went along, the "brush" which seemed so friendly at first became a little thorny. I knew that there was "catch-and-keep" (a thorny vine which catches onto skin or cloth and "keeps it" when you walk away), but had no idea of what awaited me if I kept going. And the further I went, the less I wanted to go back, because that would mean retracing the difficult steps I had just taken. Stubbornness made me go on. I felt a sharp sting in my arm, and saw "the culprit" go by. My backpack had brushed against a beehive, and when I looked back I thanked God I hadn't really bothered it. There was a whole hive of bees just beside where I had walked!

So the unfriendly brush became thicker, and thorns and varieties of cactus started to appear. I had jeans on, thank goodness, but only a t-shirt on top, so my arms were getting a bit scratched up. I kept hearing cars go by, so I was sure that when I got "over the hill" I would find at least the road out of fish bay. (But here is another lesson: even on a small island, mountains are very deceiving. What looks like "grass" from far away, can actually be the thickest brush! And, what sounds like it's coming from one direction may very well be coming from somewhere else entirely.) Well, grass I knew there wasn't, but after going up the hill I knew that I had to get over it. And to my dismay, there was no road when I reached the top. Only more thorns, aloe-like cactus, cactus vines, and more cactus. I was pretty nervous at this point, and knew that I wouldn't be making it to my study hall. I just wanted to find a road. It turned out that the safest way for me to go was over the aloe-like cactus brush.

When I got through that, the mountain curved down steeply, and I had to actually slide under the brush to go anywhere. I held onto tree branches as I slid downwards, hoping that I didn't fall. You might imagine that I was discouraged by this time. I was broken. I knew it was my stubbornness that got me into this situation, and only God could get me out! There weren't any houses in sight and I didn't know where I was. I did NOT want to be there when it got dark that evening! With hours of daylight left but nowhere to go, I just started to call out. "Help," quietly at first, but the vulnerability of that humble word hit me, and I started to cry. "HELP! Please! I don't know where I am! Help!" I said between sobs. "God, please help me. HELP!" It was after a few long minutes of calling out that I actually heard someone reply. It was a man's voice, and he said "Stay there! We'll help you down." Oh sweet relief! And humility. I tried to pull myself together, and started scooting down toward the voice. I was so happy to see a friendly face! In fable-like manner, my savior held out his hand to help me climb down the rest of the way. "Where did you come from?" he asked. "Fish Bay," I answered. "Where are we?" "Fish Bay." (Yes, all that effort and I hadn't even left Fish Bay!) As it turns out, Will (hero of the day) and his friend had also been trying to find the gut, but they got turned around too, and found me on their way back to where they started. Even more amazing was the fact that Will was the boyfriend of Angela, my manager at the surf store! He kindly gave me a ride up to the school where I profusely apologized and explained my absence. And, sweaty, scratched up, and a lot less stubborn, I started walking toward town to work the closing shift at the surf shop.

And that is how I learned never to go hiking in a strange place without a guide, and also that if I do, I should bring a map, compass, satellite phone and very large machete.